Major Parts needed:
- Pedal assembly (with Manual Throttle Cable unless you keep the auto Gas Pedal)
- Flywheel and flywheel bolts (the Auto bolts are much shorter)
- Tranny of course (Si or DX 5 speed)
- Clutch and pressure plate
- Clutch cable and firewall gromet
- Shiftlinkage with shifter and boot from 88 - 91 civic or crx
- Peice of steel to weld or glue in where the auto cable came up, so it doesn't get unreasonable hot in the car from your wouldbe heat vent.
- Axels as i hear they are diff, i didnt find out cause i did the zc swap at the same time and allready had everything including beefier axels
- Manual ECU
- Rywire runs a YELLOW/GREEN wire into the car with the wiring going to the ECU.
This wire is long enough to reach your old automatic shifter's wiring for the steps below!

Installing the pedals (have fun):
Droping steering column and removing drivers seat makes life easier at this part.

I cannot tell you how many nuts hold the assembly to the car, i can say it is all nuts though. One is really tricky to find and get to. You need a swivle, deepwell 12mm and 2 six inch extensions. It is above the air vents and steering column.

Remove the cotter pin that holds the brake pedal to the brake booster. There is also a nut and bolt for it.

Remove the gas pedal from automatic pedal assembly and move to manual assembly so the cable plugs up, or switch cable. Install the clutch cable through gromet that honda left on firewall in factory location. Rebolt all the nuts to the car that hold the pedal assembly.

Removal of the transmission:
To remove the transmission download the CRX Workshop Manual from the Norcalcrx.org Library and read the directions as Honda intended.
If you are uncomfortable with doing this or still have questions, bring your car to a licensed Mechanic and have them do the job for you.
Rywire.com does not offer tech support for removal and installation of transmissions.
The workshop manual instructions should be more than adequite.

Installing shift linkage
- Remove the old auto shifter by removing 2 bolts on top and 2 on bottom.
- Drill 2 holes where Honda welded over them as pictured below.


(Photos by George Mack www.dreambeamz.com)

Then simply install as a normal linkage would be.
Take a piece of thin metal and glue to a piece of abs plastic and epoxy it on,
T the metal is to deflect heat and the plastic is to keep the heat form transfering inside.


(Photos by George Mack www.dreambeamz.com)

Installing the transmission:
- Torqure manual flywheel bolts down at 76 footpounds of torque.
- Install clutch with alignment tool, torque bolts down to 25 ft lbs.
Before you install it all back there is one extremely important thing about the rear mount. Honda left 2 spots to mount the rear mount with 3 sets of holes, two are threaded, one is not. You need to move the mount location to the one that is threaded and then thread the other and place a bolt in there.
- Reassemble as specified in the Honda manual.
- Put new Manual axels in.

Wiring with diagrams:
One wire already goes to this switch from the Transmission.
Rywire has run a Yellow and Green wire for you, run these to the shifter wiring.
This process will make the reverse lights work when you are in reverse.

Please note that the R light on the instrument cluster will not work without some decent knowledge of relay wiring.
See http://www.the12volt.com for information.

As we see in the Circuit Diagram for the Manual transmission, a 12v+ (Yellow) wire enters the back up switch. When it is in reverse, the switch allows a 12v+ current to pass into the Green/Black wire.

To change the circuit back to a manual type we need to use the 2 wires run through your Rywire harness (extension of the back-up switch) and connect Green to Green/Black and Yellow to Yellow at the old shifter.
When the transmission is in reverse, it will send 12v+ through this connection to the Reverse Lights.


(Photos by George Mack www.dreambeamz.com)

The key will not come out unless the car is in park and you don't have a "park" anymore.
To fix this you can make the car think it is in park all the time. By doing this the P will be on in the instrument cluster all the time. This can be corrected by disconnecting the light in the guage cluster. You don't need it anymore right?


(Photos by George Mack www.dreambeamz.com)

This next connection is needed to crank the car because it no longer has a neutral or park. It is one of two plugs with only 2 wires. This one is easy to spot because it has two heavy black wires. Just connect them in a simple loop or safely with some relay work to the clutch pedal.

This is a high amperage connection, it will heat up if the connection is not flawless. Soldering wires of this gauge and protecting them with heat shrink protective tubing and alot of electrical tape is necessary. You do not want these wires to catch fire.


(Photos by George Mack www.dreambeamz.com)

Finished job:
Below is a pic of what it all looked like before covering it back up. There is a small amount of space for heat to come in at shift boot. This can be corrected in your own inventive ways. I tucked the wires under the plastic at the bottom of the pic.


(Photos by George Mack www.dreambeamz.com)